Hey all,
So I know I’m overdue for an update, so I’m going to try and blog as much as possible in these last 5 weeks (I’m crying inside as I write that!) Since I haven’t blogged in so long, this is gonna be a long one. Don’t hold your breathe or anything. Be ready to hear about Lizzy, Becca, and Allison’s holiday to Larnaka, Cyprus. If you can’t find Cyprus on a map (ahem, Aunt Julie… or Dad for that matter), here is it’s position in the world on a map. Now that our geography lesson is over, it’s time for the fun stuff.
DAY 1: Lizzy, Al, and I caught a Monarch flight to Larnaca (or Larnaka) Cyprus, leaving a cold, wet, and dreary London behind. When we arrived in Cyprus, we popped in a taxi to our hotel. Our taxi driver, Bobby, (unsure if this was a joke) was rocking a nice Mercedes cab, and we felt like celebs as we gazed out the windows. The terrain reminded me a lot of something you would find in the Middle East, and although it was very bright and sunny, London is much greener. It was so sandy and rocky, and the vegetation looked like it was build to last. It’s so different from anything I’ve ever seen before, but so beautiful! As we drove along the beach to our hotel, I was surprised to see pinkish, smoky mountains dotted with white villages in the distance. Of course, we were determined to go there.
Our hotel, Frixos Hotel Apts, was near the beach, but it wasn’t exactly what we were expecting to say the least. There was a living room (shoes requires), a kitchenette, a bedroom (twin beds, and we shoved Lizzy’s futon in there as well), and a bathroom (shower smelled like previous anti-deodorant Europeans who had probably stayed there earlier). While we panicked a little at first, we knew it was late and we were tired. Also, we felt completely safe, and the view over the pool was amazing, so it was hard to complain.
DAY 2: It was Easter Sunday, but thought we would head out looking for some bikes to rent anyways. Of course, nothing was open, but we were able to stop and get some fresh fruit from the local market. We got some kiwis (huge), pears (best ever), and plums (GIGANTIC). There were three dogs in the store eating food from plates. It was clear that these were the neighborhood dogs, and it was so cute and comforting that all the village people feed and take care of them. It did make me miss the boy, though.
We got a lot of attention from the locals, because we clearly weren’t from the island. The attention was curiosity mostly, and the woman at the fruit store offered us a slice of her family’s traditional Easter bread. It was a dry, spongey bread with a sweet taste. She then offered us her son’s hand in marriage. Needless to say, so far everyone we met has been extremely welcoming and seems to genuinely care that we enjoy our trip. I thought language would be a problem, but generally everyone has spoken proficient English.
We also layed by our pool and let the sun beat down on us for a few hours (don’t worry I rocked the SPF 50, Mom). It was great to relax. London is very busy, and taking the Tube can be exhausting. The attitude here is much more calm and relaxed. We walked by the beach and passed by some amazing homes. People are very family-orientated, and everyone out was with a big group. The gates and doors to the houses were wide open, which shows how trusting the Cypriots are.
We walked along the beach which had the most amazing clear, blue waters. The water looked like Kool-Aid, it was refreshing and shallow, and there were rock formations to dive off of. We saw some flowers that we had never seen before. Of course, we took 900 pictures each. Everything was in bloom.
DAY 3: On Day 3, the Cyprus beautifuls (aka Lizzy, Allison, and me) got up bright and early and enjoyed a delicious kiwi. We set out to look for a bike rental place, and we stumbled across one location that rented Vespas. Of course, we stopped, but the man absolutely refused to rent us the scooters. Wonder why, maybe the headbands threw him off. We headed to the next junction near Frixos, which honestly looked a bit shady from the outside. One thing I’ve noticed about businesses in Cyprus is that most are family-run, and the “Rent a Car” place was no different. There was crap-ton of stuff everywhere in the office, including a tire and a Saint Bernard, but the owner of the shop was rocking an Armani suit, and he had his wife bring him coffee on a tray.
Eventually, with a 3.50 Euro a day charge a day, we had 3 mountain bikes for the week. Not 100% sure how to get to the city center, we figured we should just follow the beach because we can see the city from our hotel. It was about a 40-45 minute ride and we were a little unsure where the main life of the city was. Following a road lined with Greek and Cypriot flags, we passed an ice rink (random), on our route to the seafront. It was so beautiful! There were a lot of people out, walking, swimming, and playing sports on the beach. All the restaurants had seating outside, and there was a plethora of places to choose from; including American food and traditional Greek cuisine. People were also lounging at outdoor bars/chill lounges drinking and smoking. Craving a juicy burger and free refills, we stopped at TGI Friday’s.
Before our meal, we rode along the beach to the Larnaca Fort. It was smaller than I expected, but extremely well-preserved and beautiful. We circled around it, but it was closed, like some of the other museums and offices in the city. We also headed out on a pier. The pier jutted out really far into the sea (as the people say in Cyprus), but the water was so clear and shallow. The sand and schools of fish under the waves were visible.
We took our bikes to St Lazaros (St Lazarus) Church. It was in the same style as the fort, and it seemed to be in a residential area, as there weren’t many tourists around. The area seemed a little dirtier than the rest of the city, but the people were really friendly,a dn it was obvious that this was the area were the city Cypriots live. It’s amazing to me how different the lifestyle is from mine. Do these people leave home? Do they go to college? If not, how does everyone know English? The lifestyle is just so different from life in London. No one is in a rush, and everyone carries themselves with such a relaxation and ease. Everyone in London is always in a hurry and their bodies are tense. Here it is like the clocks are set by feel.
After biking home, we headed to the beach. Laying out in the sun and wading in the water felt amazing. There was a mix of locals and tourists, which I found refreshing. I found that while traveling, especially this trip, that I listen for British accents instead of American ones. I’ve been here too long, I guess. A young British family allowed their young son to run completely naked and dig around in the sand (as their toddler devoured handfuls of it), which I found extremely strange, even for Europe. Aside from the occasional thong and topless sunbather, beach-goers were decently dressed. In the States, people are so terrified of pedophiles and perverts that they barely let their child out in less than a long sleeve.
Speaking of long-sleeves, we were not able to enter the Church because we were improperly dressed. Being the provocative Western women we are, Lizzy and my shorts were deemed inappropriate, and Allison’s blue tank top didn’t make the cut.
It’s amazing to see how integrated religion is with daily life here. There are paintings and sculptures of the holy family in convience stores, which seem to actually sell. Also, in the business offices of the island, there are huge pictures of Jesus and Mary right along with pictures of their actual family. Also, many places (family owned mostly) were closed because it was Easter Sunday.
DAY 4: -Planned Scuba excursion, went to store, had soft drinks at Modo Cafe/Bar, layed by pool, lunch in Larnaka, played cards with wine by the pool, went out to Queen’s Arms Pub, Chinese rice at Lil Wong’s for midnight snackage
DAY 5: Honestly, one of the most amazing days of the semester and definitely the best day of Spring Break. We got up early to head on our “Cyprus Jeep Safari” tour. We were the last to be picked up and our tour guide, Hannibul, (fake name?) was friendly and enthusiastic right away. We were seen off on our day trip by George (the 60+ hotel owner) and Grandpa (as we call him). They all waved out the window as we left. Seriously, since coming to Cyprus I feel like multiple old men have adopted me as their favorite granddaughter, and I am perfectly okay with it.
We were the only people in the 10-person Jeep who could only speak English. Lizzy, Al, and I were once again reminded of the differences between the States and the rest of the world. Everyone else on the bus spoke Russian; they were mostly from Russia, but two were from Estonia. While we were American and exclusively English-speaking, Hannibul took to us right away and we were quickly nicknamed “his girls” by everyone in the group.
It was a little nerve-racking at first, riding up the mountains, especially when Hannibul is fond of stopping and sharing facts about random plant life with the group. That I can remember, we saw eucalyptus, thyme, sage, lavender, gold tree, lemon, orange, artichoke, and curry leaves all grow wild on the island. Although I think London is greener, clearly this is the place to get stuck.
Our first stop was at the village of Lefkara in the mountains. The village seemed petite to us, but there many houses, including summer homes and a school. We had a glass of the traditional Cypriot wine (oldest wine in the world, holler!) which was very dark red and extremely sweet. The village is also famous for silver and lace, and we were able to see some samples in a shop. The lace is crafted by the women of Lefkara entirely by hand, without any machines. Living in London and growing up in the suburbs of the US, it shocks me that there are places in the world where people live in mountain villages and make hand-made lace. It’s so simple, yet so beautiful that this still happens in the world. It’s clear from my experience in Cyprus that careers, money, and success are second to human relationships, an idea which is so refreshing.
Winding up the mountain while being off road was scary, but joking around with Hannibul and learning Greek was a pleasant distraction. We tried a few Russian tongue-twisters before teaching one of our own, “How Now Brown Cow”. We also learned hello in Russian and Greek. Hannibul had a great sense of humor which was great since we were bouncing off ridges and cliffs 1000+ meters above sea level.
We stopped at very beautiful and scenic location on our way to lunch where limestone and lava rock could be seen together. Also, if you yell in a group, the echo is taken by the wind and can be heard echoing on a different mountain. It was really cool, and super weird. We also stopped at a traditional Cypriot cafe for coffee. The cafe is traditionally for males only. The men sit and enjoy both on the porch and in the cafe while the women work in the village. It amazed me that this still goes in in EUROPE, but I reminded myself that Cypriot culture is different. Inside we sat and two older men started asking our tour guide about us. I got nervous thinking they were upset because we were sitting, but really they wanted to talk to us. Talking to them was amazing! They had so many questions: about college in the States, New York, life in Chicago, the Midwest, life in London, George W Bush, Florida, Barack Obama, Christianity… They also told us they had never seen three women so beautiful and so clever (duh). The most heart melting moment was when the man patted me on the arm and asked me to come back to cafe sometime. being in such a traditional cafe in rural Cyprus where women aren’t allowed in, having such a genuine invite was flattering and kind. Because tourism to Cyprus is dominated by Europeans, and we were in such a rural area, it is extremely likely that we are the first Americans these men have met.
We ate lunch at the Dolphin Cafe before heading to the waterfall and Monastery. The waterfall was pretty, and because Cyprus is so dry, it looked so good. Our next stop was the very famous Kykkos Monastery in the north of the island. Kykkos, built in the 11th century, had a different structure than the 1 I saw in Assisi, Italy, bit it was so lovely and almost completely open-air. My favorite part was the small, but golden and ornate, chapel where the Greek Orthodox icon is held. The icon is of the Virgin Mary and it was painted by Saint Luke the Apostle in the mountains of the island. Many member of the Greek Orthodox Church make a pilgrimage to see and kiss the icon, and watching people kneel, kiss, and caress the icon was completely foreign and beautiful to me. Especially since living in London, it is rare to see such belief and devotion in faith.
Before heading home, we drove through Nicossia (busy!) and saw the mountains of Turkey. Lizzy and I also split a deliciously overpriced glass of pure fresh Cyprus orange juice.
Sorry this is long overdue.
Cheers,
Becca